Saturday, 27 November 2010

Benidorm Medio Maraton


















I desperately wanted to get a half marathon in before the end of the year because I knew I was faster than my PB of 1:18. I lined up a potential weekend and looked at options in the UK and abroad. The UK options whilst feasible were still a bit of trek (midlands) and probably not the most exciting options. I needed more of an adventure... And I certainly ended up with one!
I signed up for the Benidom Half Marathon in Spain. Whilst it involved a bit of travel it was definitely do-able. And I love the Spanish language and culture. So here is what happened...
Thursday it started snowing in Dundee and little did I know it wouldn’t stop until I tried to get back home! So Thursday night I drove to the Ferry Toll Park and Ride at Queensferry and from there caught a couple of Buses to Glasgow airport. Because I had an early flight I opted to stay overnight in the Normandy (a hotel close to the airport). Our easy jet flight landed at Alicante. From there I caught a bus to Benidorm. There were other runners on the Bus all heading to Benidorm. It was a big weekend in the Spanish town as the full marathon was also on the Sunday. Benidorm according to some of the operators at work was the ‘Blackpool’ of Spain. And there was certainly some truth in that, with British pubs on every corner, high rise apartment buildings and adult amusement stores. It was obviously a slow part of the year but you could tell in the summer it would be jam packed with Poms. When I arrived I bought cheese, Chorizo and bread and sat on the main beach and made sandwiches. It was only 13 or so degrees. But certainly still warmer than the UK. I checked into the hotel Iris. Asad and his sister were very welcoming, they had just arrived back from the UK. I had a kip in the hotel room then went up to the race registration and picked up my chip and number. I found out the race was scheduled for 18:00 on Saturday night, this is very late for a race! After I had my gear I walked up to the Mercado and picked up food for the race (bars, banana’s, water etc) Then I dropped everything back at the hotel and went in search of an Italian restaurant, so I could get some pre-race carbs down me. After that I went for my pre-race Icecream and wandered along the water front and up to the look-out which offered views over the two main beaches in Benidorm. Back at the hotel I checked emails and FB Kim. Hit the hay by midnight.
Saturday, race day! I had a good sleep in then explored some of the shops in Benidorm. I bought Kim some earrings then just bummed around the rest of the day. The only really useful thing I did was buy my bus tickets to Valencia. As the afternoon wore on the weather deteriorated and by 5pm it was bucketing down. Got into my race kit and had a quick photo before heading to the start line to warm up. I was very early, and even had time to nip back to the hotel to change watches because my race watch and run out of batteries! Started near the front of a tightly packed group, as usual everyone had a lot of nervous energy and this built up as we neared the starting gun. Bang! We were off! The crowd cheered and there were fireworks, but I was head down and gone, skipping my way across the puddles. I kept to my usual race strategy and started off slower and so I could pick people off during the run. The course was a double loop along the Benidorm foreshore, and we finished near the start. I ran hard and the last km and a bit I had the stitch but I pushed through as hard as I could. I told myself I would be pleased if I beat my PB but ecstatic if I went under 1:15. So I finished the race very wet, with a killer stitch but absolutely ecstatic because my time was 1:14:40. 20th overall and 14th in my age group. Over the finish line we received a blanket, coffee cup, sweets and an offer of a leg massage, which I could not turn down. More fireworks and I wish there was someone I could share my race experience with but never mind. I trudged back to the hotel and got changed, Asad was there waiting to give me a high five!
It was still bucketing down so I used the heat blanket to keep the rain off. I swung past the finish line again and found my placing before heading to the bus stop. I talked to Kim and Mum and Dad on the way. I picked up some food at the bus stop supermarket, I had difficulty explaining to the supermarket staff in Spanish that I wanted to buy 1 plastic spoon to eat my yoghurt. I ended up buying a pack of 50. I couldn’t sleep on the bus trip to Valencia. I arrived near midnight and caught a taxi to the hostel, because it was still raining. I had a four bed dorm to myself in the hostel, so that was brilliant.
The next day I had an early start because I had a 06:30 bus to Madrid. The weather was clear but cold. Good bus trip. We stopped once for breakfast. We dropped into the ‘crater’ of Madrid. A big city but I didn’t get a chance to explore it because I wanted to make sure I had enough time to get to the airport. From the airport I caught two tubes to the airport. No problems. And I was there with oodles of time to spare. So I sat outside in the sun and read. My flight was scheduled for 16:30 but this got delayed and then cancelled because the plan never arrived. Edinburgh airport was closed due to the snow storms which were covering Scotland. So we queued at the Easyjet service desk for at least an hour and half to find another way back to the UK. Other people were booking flights in the queue, but i didn’t have access to internet so I had to wait, consequently I missed out on any flights into the UK that night. So I organised I flight to Liverpool for the following day at 17:30, thinking at the time that it was my best option... I was tired... So easyjet put the stranded travellers up in the auditorium airport hotel overnight, which was brilliant. A massive hotel, and we got dinner and lunch as well. I chatted with other stranded travellers and we formed a bit of a bond, forged from our situation. Kim was brilliant, throughout the ordeal, she looked at alternative ways to get back to the UK and helped me out a lot. So my flight to Liverpool even though it was delayed went ahead. So at least I was in the right country now! Next step was an overnight bus from Liverpool to Edinburgh. We transferred in Manchester where I met a Kiwi guy who was trying to get into the French legion. We chatted and it helped pass the time until my bus left at 01:30. The bus ride as you expect wasn’t super comfortable and I slept in spurts. We transferred in Glasgow and I arrived in Edinburgh about 08:30. Then I was on another bus to the Ferrytoll park and ride where my car was, during this time my boss rung me and asked me where I was! I explained I was on my way! So I made it to my car, now I had the slow drive to Dundee on roads which were very snow and ice covered. Along the route there were jack-knifed lorries and abandoned cars, but I made it ok. I arrived at about 11 a.m. and went straight to work! The end of a long weekend! What a mission!

Thursday, 21 October 2010

Berlin































6 days in the capital of Germany with Mum and Dad, October 15th to 21st. We hired an apartment in the suburb of Wilmersdorf. An autumn chill was definitely present for our trip; multiple layers were required most days.
Sights:
1.Hop on – hop off Bus trip: We did this on our first day, it was a good way to get a feel for the city, whilst sheltering from the elements.
2.Potsdamer Platz and Arkaden – Sight of Europes first traffic light, then ravaged and divided by the war the area is now a showcase for urban renewal, with buildings such as the Sony centre, Daimler city and the skyscrapers in the Beisheim Centre. We wandered through the arcade where the water fountain feature really captured Dad’s attention.
3.Reichstag – Home to German parliament. As one of many visitors to the Reichstag we queued early to see the attraction. We took the elevator up to see the Reichstag’s most striking contemporary feature, its glistening glass dome. We spiralled up the inside of the dome with commentary of various sights out over the panoramic Berlin cityscape. Inside the dome was mirror clad funnel, which directed air and light to parliament chambers. The aspect of visitors seeing the MP’s making and debating laws is promoting the ideology of a transparent government. I guess this is important for the German’s given their history. The building has been burned, bombed and blasted but now after being rebuilt it is the centre piece of Berlin.
4.The Holocaust memorial - A memorial to the murdered jews of Europe. Designed by American Architect Peter Eisenmann it consists of 2711 concrete stelae spread evenly across a huge field like an abstract cemetery. The symbolism of the memorials’ design is open to the observer’s interpretation. We wandered through the field of slabs, in the centre of the memorial the ground slopes away and the blocks are more like skyscrapers. We darted through the blocks and snuck up on each other taking surprise photographs.
5.Hitler’s Bunker – Today it lies under a run of the mill car park. This was where Hitler spent his last moments at the end of the war with his newlywed wife Eva before they took cyanide pills and killed themselves with pistols. Apparently the bunker is now flooded.
6.Brandenburger Tor and Pariser Platz – A symbol of division during the cold war, the recently restored landmark now epitomises German reunification. It is the only remaining gate of a series through which Berlin was once entered. On top of the gate lies the Quadriga sculpture, a horse drawn chariot piloted by the winged goddess of victory. The Quadriga was stolen and taken to Paris after the victory of the forces of Napoleon I of France over Frederick William III of Prussia. The Quadriga was later returned (or a replica anyway) when Napoleon was defeated. The gate stands sentinel over Pariser Platz, an elegant square surrounded by embassies, bank buildings, museums and a starbucks. Also at one end of the platz is the Hotel Adlon, If you want to go all out you can book a room there for 15,000 Euro’s a night! Err... maybe not! It was also the hotel where Michael Jackson famously dangled that baby out of the window.
7.Gendarmenmarket – Once a thriving market place Gendarmenmarket is now Berlin’s most graceful square. The twin churches of Deutcher Dom and Franzosischer Dom (built for the French Hugenots) frame Schinkel’s Konzerthaus to form a superbly harmonious trio. Surrounding the square are fancy hotels and restaurants.
8.Jewish Museum – The history of German Jews and their contributions to culture, art, science are creatively chronicled in this arcitecturely unique museum. Designed by Daniel Libeskind, the building serves as a metaphor for the tortured history of the Jewish people. Zinc clad walls rise skyward in a sharply angled zigzag ground plan that is an abstract interpretation of a star. Instead of windows, irregular gashes pierce the gleaming facade. Some of the exhibitions at the start of the Museum were particularly haunting, the ‘void’, the garden of exile, the holocaust tower and the fallen leaves exhibit, where 10,000 cast iron discs with faces carved into them were spread on the floor of a large room. The museum was full on, with a lot to take. Unfortunately, we had to rush the last part (persecution of the jews during WW2) because Dad was flying out that afternoon.
9.Berlin Wall and Eastside Gallery – A barrier constructed by the German Democratic Republic (GDR, East Germany) starting on 13 August 1961, that completely cut off West Berlin from surrounding East Germany and from East Berlin. The barrier included guard towers placed along large concrete walls, which circumscribed a wide area (later known as the "death strip") that contained anti-vehicle trenches, attack dogs, barbed wire and other defences. The Soviet-dominated Eastern Bloc officially claimed that the wall was erected to protect its population from fascist elements conspiring to prevent the "will of the people" in building a Socialist State in East Germany. However, in practice, the Wall served to prevent the massive emigration and defection that marked Germany and the communist Eastern Bloc during the post-World War II period.
Today the path of the wall is shown by a double brick line in the ground, however there are still short stretches of wall which serves as a memorial. The Eastside gallery is 1.3 km long and one of the best preserved parts of the wall. It is the largest open air gallery in the wall, and some of the graffiti artwork is amazing!
10.Olympic stadium – Built for the 1936 Olympic games, the Olympiastadion recently underwent a four year 290million euro revamp. The highlight is the oval roof that sheltered nearly all of the 74,000 seats. A beautiful web of glass, steel and fibre glass membrane, it softens the bulky original coliseum like structure. We wandered the stadium with our Audio tour and took in the swimming pool, and the Maifield out the back which was used for mass Nazi rallies. We also learnt about Hitler shunning the black athletes such as Jesse Owens when he won gold. Jack Lovelock also featured for NZ winning gold in the 1500.
11.Potsdam – On Wednesday Mum and I ventured out with the Sandemans walking tour group to Potsdam, 24 km southwest of Berlin. In our group we had a friendly older couple from Aussie and our Aussie tour guide Paul. The weather was pretty dicey, but we soldiered on. We learnt about the history of Prussia and Brandenburg. Fredrick the great was influential in transforming Potsdam into the crown jewel of the state of Brandeburg. Many of the Palaces and grounds outside the city centre survived the destruction of the war, and their architecture albeit a wee bit neglected over the years is still quite a sight. Highlights were the terraced palace of Schloss Sanssouci, Neues Palais and the historically significant palace / mansion of Schloss Cecilienhof where the Potsdam conference took place after the war and Germany and Berlin were divided up into occupied zones by the allies. The palace grounds were particularly spectacular with the autumnal colours.
12.Sandemans Berlin Walking tour – We also visited other sites in Berlin, courtesy of the sandemans walking tour. ‘Geoff’ from the Netherlands expertly guided us around Berlin and we visited other sites including The Luftwaffe headquarters, which only survived the war because it was used as a marker point to bomb the rest of the city. Check point Charlie, now a much touristified symbol of the cold war, this was the main gateway for Allies, other non-Germans and diplomats between the two Berlins from 1961 to 1990. On the tour we also saw Berlins Pink pipes their apparent purpose being to control Berlin’s high water table and prevent flooding. Halfway through the tour we stopped at the restaurant Aroma and had tasty sandwiches on very fresh bread. Here we met an interesting guy (Ben) from Cornwall. We strolled through Bebelplatz, famous for the Nazi book burning incident in 1933. Today a memorial by Micha Ullman consisting of a glass plate set into the cobbles, giving a view of empty bookcases, commemorates the book burning. Also surrounding the square is the state opera house, St Hedwig’s Cathedral and the law Faculty for Humboldt University. Over the Unter De linden Boulevard is the main campus for Humboldt University, Berlins oldest university it was attended by many famous scholars including Albert Einstein, Karl Marx and Max Planck. Down from the university was the memorial for victims of war and tyranny. A statue of a lone mother cradling her dying son in an empty room is very haunting. Our final stop of the walking tour was the steps of the impressive Berlin Dom Cathedral (built in 1906). Here we learnt about the accidental announcement of the opening of the gates between East and West Germany. Morale of the story... always read you notes before announcing something over live international TV.
13.Teirgarten Park – Berlin’s green lung. I went for a few morning runs through the park mostly in drizzly damp conditions, but it was still picturesque with the autumnal leaves. At 167 hectares it is one of the world’s largest city parks sweeping from Brandenburger Tor all the way to Bahnhoff Zoo Charlottenburg. In the centre of the park is the Siegessaule or Victory column which commemorates successful 19th century Prussian military exploits. Along the southern stretch of Tiergarten is embassy row, where there was a combination of modern and culturally significant embassy buildings. Highlights were the Nordic Embassy, the Mexican Embassy and the Saudi Embassy. We spent an evening in a beer garden near the Zoo, they had nice orange rugs to wrap up in the cold and Mum enjoyed a very large shandy!
Accommodation: As mentioned before we hired an apartment in the suburb of Wilmersdorf. Situated in between the orange line( Fehrberlliner Platz) and light blue line (Blissestr.) It had a large open - 1 room living plan plus a bathroom. But it was perfect launch pad for exploring Berlin. The only minor problems we had were with the noisy heating clicking on and off on the first night and the missing curtains. The decor was very colourful and the two options of coffee cups were massive or tincy! We ate in a couple of times with takeaways and often ended the night with a game of quiddler which the favourable result unusually went the way of Dad this trip.
Shopping: Berlin is a great city for a wardrobe makeover. I came away with a couple of new jackets (one leather), couple of shirts, a scarf and a new pair of casual shoes. We spent a couple of days in total probably shopping. We wandered into some ‘very nice’ shops with clothing that had ‘very nice’ price tags. We visited KaDeWe, Galeries Lafayette (which revolved around a giant glass cone), Potzdamer Platz Arkaden malls and other shops straight off the street. I am not normally not much of shopper and it only worked for me after a caffeine induced hit. Mum got a couple of things as well, but Dad was really only there for moral support.
Transportation: For a city of approximately 3 million people, Berlins transportation is top notch. The metro system is extensive and there were no delays. I have to mention Hauptbahnhof train station, it is the main railway station in Berlin, Germany and the largest crossing station in Europe. It began full operation two days after a ceremonial opening on 26 May 2006. It is now Europe's largest two-level railway station. It is an architecturally stunning glass and steel structure that is a pleasure to be in.
Food and Drink: We dined out a couple of times in the city. The first time was at our ‘local’. Just down the road from the apartment. The place was a lounge bar / French restaurant. Unfortunately there was no live music on the night we were there, but the food and laid back atmosphere was excellent. Our friendly German waiter (who had stayed in Gisborne!) recommended some traditional German food for us. I won’t even try to remember the exact names of the meals. But I had meatballs, Dad had a potato mince thing and Mum had Snails! We also one night ventured over to East Berlin, to a traditional German restaurant recommended to us by our tour guide ‘Geoff’. The Volckswirtschaft. The restaurant was homely in a German way and it had a good atmosphere. The highlight of the evening was the home brewed wheat beers which were the best I have ever tried. Our waiter was a little bit eccentric, in a German kind of way. But he was friendly and helpful. I went for the sourkraut with pork and mash. Deliciousimo. Other memorable food experiences in Berlin were... The thai food which I asked the lady for without nuts, and got nuts! The Berlin Buns, Dad’s and my expedition to find currywurst. Top notch Donor Kebabs. Imbibing delicious German wheat beers, including schlossenhoffer, Erdinger and others...
City Life: Berlin has emerged from its long dark past as a modern, trendy and vibrant city. The place oozes style and this is reflected in the youth of Berlin. A very liveable city with some amazing modern architecture, the German people are embracing change at a very rapid pace. Potentially my favourite European city so far on my travels, it’s definitely worth another visit!

Monday, 20 September 2010

Россия - Russia. St Petersburg -> Moscow


































































Россия
Russia, largest country in the world, energy super power, the world’s largest forest reserves and contains approximately 1/4 of the world’s fresh water. This is a country I knew very little about coming from New Zealand, so it was always on my list of places to see...
I organised the trip through a company called ‘on the go tours’. The tour package was called the ‘vodka shot’ and took in the two main cities of Russia, St Petersburg and Moscow. Good friends Richie and Mel were keen to join me on the trip, so that was great. The trip wasn’t as simple as jumping on a plane, Visa’s had to be organised as well as multiple flights. On the 13th of September I flew: Dundee - Birmingham - Copenhagen (overnight stop , at the Zleep Aiport Hotel) - St Petersburg. I arrived at 13:40 on the 14th of September. All my documents were in order so I swept through customs ok. As I stepped out of the terminal, my first impressions were very unlike my expectations. For some reason I was expecting a third world country gripped by cold temperatures and full of unfriendly people. I was wrong in every aspect. The people I encountered were friendly, temperatures were 15-20 deg and life seemed modern and normal. The only real shock I got was the language, In particular the Cyrillic alphabet, which was a bit had to grasp. The language had two layers, Cyrillic to English lettered Russian to Russian.
So when I walked out of the terminal my driver (I can’t remember his name so let’s call him Ivan) was waiting with an ‘on the go tours’ sign. He put me on the phone to our tour group leader Olga. She explained the plan of attack. So I then shared a two half journey (due to heavy traffic) with Ivan from the Airport to the Anderson Hotel. During the trip I ‘brushed up’ on my Russian and admired the buildings and monuments of St Petersburg. I was bit stiff when I finally extracted myself from Ivan’s back seat. I thanked him in Russian several times and found the check-in. Officially all foreign visitors to Russia must register within 3 days of their arrival. The hotel staff took my passport and registered me within an hour no problems. Feeling a bit peckish I needed some food, but I had no Roubles. So I had to exchange my Euro’s. I went to a bank, waited for 15 minutes in a queue only to realise I needed to be in a different queue which I was pointed in the direction of. I waited in the queue and indicated to the man standing next to me if this was the place where I exchanged Euro’s. He indicated that this was the right queue, but I needed my passport which the hotel had!, So back to the hotel to retrieve my passport and registration slip, then back to the bank. At the exchange till they didn’t even ask for my passport! What a drama. With roubles in hand I went straight to the nearest bakery where I bought a couple of apple pastry’s. I had no idea how much these cost and I handed her 1000 Roubles, she gave me the ‘do you have anything smaller look’ so I obliged with a 500. The pastry’s barely dented my appetite so I went into a cafe and ordered a small pizza (by pointing at another customer’s pizza). “Pizza” she said, “da” I replied, feeling pretty stupid, because obviously the word was pretty universal. I washed it down with a Russian lager, then went and chilled in the hotel room. After a kip I showered and then went down to the introductory briefing. Here Olga gave us all the do’s and don’ts, a breakdown of additional activities and we had a little bit of a meet and greet with the other Travellers. I met Divnesh, Elijah, Lydia, Steve, Belinda. The majority of the 19 strong group were from Australia, a handful of Kiwi’s, a couple of British and an American. It was 10pm by the time we finished and I realised I was hungry again, so I teamed with Lydia and Elijah and we went for a ‘traditional’ Russian meal, McDonald’s! The menu was in Russian and English. I ordered the big tasty, I got this strange yellow sauce with my chips, my initial reaction was shock horror because I thought they had given me margarine, we worked out that it was cheese sauce, so tragedy averted. Richie and Mel were enroute from the airport so I decided to walk back to the hotel so I could be there when they arrived. I was walking along the footpath when someone called out my name! Who the hell knows me in Russia, I thought to myself. But it was Mel and Richie from their taxi. I jumped in and rode the rest of the hotel. We had a bit of a catch up over a beer and some nibbles and I gave them the run-down from the meeting. I hit the hay by about midnight. But I didn’t fall asleep, nooo. There were at least two annoying mozzy’s giving me grief most of the night.
Day 2 St Petersburg:
I woke early and went for a jog, it was grey and misty, but the city was busy for 6.30 in the morning. I ran down Kamennoostrovskii Pospekt around Peter and Pauls fortress over some bridges, past the hermitage and back to the hotel. It was about 10k. I met Richie and Mel for Brekkie at 9 a.m. It felt like a porridge day, so I went for that. Unfortunately the porridge was very salty, I wasn’t sure if this was the Russian way, but the next day it was extra sweet, so I guessed it wasn’t. Our green bus departed at 10 a.m. Olga was on the microphone and we parked ourselves in the back of the bus. By this stage the weather was clearing and we were on track for a good day. Our first stop on our Bus tour of St Petersburg was the Aurora Cruiser. Aurora stands today as the oldest commissioned ship of the Russian Navy. The ship was one of three Pallada-class cruisers, built in St. Petersburg for service in the Far East (in the Pacific). All three ships of this class served during the Russo-Japanese War. As a museum ship, the cruiser Aurora became one of the many tourist attractions of Leningrad (now Saint Petersburg), and continued to be a symbol of the Communist Revolution and a prominent attribute of Russian history. From the banks of the Neva we also saw a hydro foil spraying water everywhere as it sped up the river.
Now is probably a good time to give you a bit of a run down about St Petersburg. Founded by Tsar Peter I “Peter the Great”, in 1703. The city was built on a swamp, by serfs and Swedish prisoners of war. Peter the great, was a great a traveller in his youth, and he gained many experiences, this blending of European cultures is seen in St Petersburg’s, it is sometimes described with all of its canal’s as the “Venice of the North”. The style of Baroque dominated the city architecture during the first sixty years, culminating in the Elizabethan Baroque, represented most notably by Bartolomeo Rastrelli with such buildings as the Winter Palace. The city is the second largest in Russia and the 5th largest in Europe. The city was also the capital of the Russian Empire for than two-hundred years between the years 1713-1718, 1732-1918. The city of 5.1 million inhabitants has also had several names Petrograd (1914-1924), Leningrad (1924-1991) It is also informally known as Piter. Geographically it is the most western city of Russia, it is located on the Neva River at the head of the gulf of Finland on the Baltic sea.
So we jumped back on the bus and drove past Trinity square, the site of the first settlements of the city. We jostled with the morning traffic over Troickii bridge while Olga, gave us commentaries on various sites. We passed the front of the palace embankment and then over the Dvorcovyji bridge to Vasilievsky Island. This is the largest Island in Saint Petersburg and is bordered by the rivers Bolshaya Neva and Malaya Neva. We only visited the eastern most tip of the island, where the bus stopped for 5 minutes and we took in the Rostral Columns (erected to commemorate a naval military victory), the old St Petersburgs stock exchange and the views across the Neva to the Winter Palace and Peter and Paul’s fortress. Back on the bus we went via the Nevskii project (st Petersburg main street ) to a funky Russian store which sold various souvenirs, jewellery, clothing and lots and lots of Russian dolls. One particular item in the store which really caught my eye was the ‘floating’ table with the red wobbly legs. From the store we walked past Mikhaijlovskij Gardens to the ‘Church on Spilt Blood’. The name refers to the blood of Tsar Alexander II of Russia, who was assassinated on that site in 1881 (He died from mortal wounds suffered after a suicide bomb attack). Construction began in 1883 under Alexander III, as a memorial to his father, Alexander II. Work progressed slowly and was finally completed during the reign of Nicholas II in 1907. We wandered back to the bus. As we wound through the busy Saint Petersburg streets, Olga explained what various buildings were. At this point, my phone rang. It turned out to be the bank ringing about my debit card, which had been blocked, “because they believed fraudulent activity was been carried out” After a couple of difficult phone calls with Indian phone operators I managed to get them to unblock my card so I could withdraw Roubles from cash machines. Next site was a quick stop at St Isaacs Cathedral, where we saw the horse statue with two points of contact and the worlds least intimidating police car. We headed back to Nevskii Prospekt for lunch. We stopped near a pancake house (which are very big in Russia), however the menu didn’t really spark our boat, so we wandered down the main drag to Subway. After lunch we checked out Kazan Cathedral. It is dedicated to Our Lady of Kazan, probably the most venerated icon in Russia. The cathedral was modelled by Andrey Voronikhin after St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. The group planned to meet at the impressive Palace square at 2pm. Palace square was the setting of many events of worldwide significance, including the Bloody Sunday (1905) and the October Revolution of 1917. The centre of the square is marked with the Alexander Column (1830-34), designed by Auguste de Montferrand. This red granite column (the tallest of its kind in the world) is 47.5 metres high and weighs some 500 tons. It is set so well that no attachment to the base is needed. The earliest and most celebrated building on the square is the baroque white-and-azure Winter Palace of Russian tsars (1754-62), which gave the square its name. Although the adjacent buildings are designed in the Neoclassical style, they perfectly match the palace in their scale, rhythm, and monumentality. The plan for the afternoon was exploring the state hermitage with Olga as our ever knowledgeable guide. The State Hermitage (Russian: Государственный Эрмитаж) is a museum of art and culture in Saint Petersburg, Russia. One of the largest and oldest museums of the world, it was founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great and open to the public since 1852. Its collections, of which only a small part is on permanent display, comprise nearly 3 million items, including the largest collection of paintings in the world. Olga told us that someone estimated that if you were to study every item of the collection it would take you 11 years! Unfortunately we could not ‘fit it in’ to our tour schedule. The museum was very popular with tour groups and leaders holding up strange markers were common place. We trooped up elaborate stairways, though exquisite hallways, ballrooms and galleries. Most of the rooms were decorated with impressive guilding and chandeliers. We saw artwork from Rembrandt and Da Vinci as well as other cultures. Before the trip I watched the movie the ‘Russian Ark’ and many of the rooms in the Hermitage I recognised from the movie. Highlights for me were the mosaic table tops, the Peacock clock and the huge malachite vase. I was so impressed with the Museum I decided to donate my St Petersburg guide book (courtesy of the Dundee Library) to the Hermitage (not on purpose of course, in other words I lost it!) much to the entertainment of the rest of the group. After the Hermitage the group headed to a pub (some of decorations of the pub definitely raised a few eyebrows, due to their sexual nature). But with Olga’s assistance we tucked into a ‘Beer booty meal’ and a few lagers. Feeling ‘happy’ we moved onto the Ballet at the ‘Grand Palace Theatre’. This was my first ballet experience, and what better place than in Russia. To be honest I found Act 1 a bit slow, and it didn’t help that I didn’t know the story line. But after reading the programme and half time ice creams I got into it a bit more in the succeeding acts. I did appreciate the precision movement by the dancers in particular the lead female character Odette. The ballet finished around 10.30, and it had been a long day so we grabbed the Metro back to the hotel, with a quick stop at the supermarket for Beef Jerky and drinks enroute.
Day 3 St Petersburg:
Breakfast kicked off at 8 a.m. with the extra sweet porridge. Then we were back on the green bus, on the bus I sorted out payment with Olga for all the extra activities and confirmed my flight departure details which were wrong on her sheet. We took some of the back roads through St Petersburg and got to appreciate the ‘real’ non tourist part of town. We arrived at the train station where we dropped our bags in preparation for our overnight train. Back on the bus it took us roughly an hour to reach Peterhof Palace. On the bus I did crosswords with Richie, Mel, Lucy and Robert. We arrived at the Palace grounds at 12:30, delayed quite a bit due to traffic. The Peterhof Palace (Russian: Петерго́ф, Petergof, originally named Peterhof, Dutch or German for "Peter's Court") is actually a series of palaces and gardens located in St Petersburg, Russia, laid out on the orders of Peter the Great. These Palaces and gardens are sometimes referred as the "Russian Versailles". The palace-ensemble along with the city centre is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We only visited the gardens, although the fountains by sheer number were some of the most spectacular I have ever seen. In particular the main fountain of the grand cascade. These waters flow into a semicircular pool, the terminus of the fountain-lined Sea Channel. In the 1730s, the large Samson Fountain was placed in this pool. It depicts the moment when Samson tears open the jaws of a lion, representing Russia's victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War, and is doubly symbolic. The lion is an element of the Swedish coat of arms, and one of the great victories of the war was won on St Samson's Day. Perhaps the greatest technological achievement of Peterhof is that all of the fountains operate without the use of pumps. Water is supplied from natural springs and collects in reservoirs in the Upper Gardens. The elevation difference creates the pressure that drives most of the fountains of the Lower Gardens, including the Grand Cascade. The Samson Fountain is supplied by a special aqueduct, over four km in length, drawing water and pressure from a high-elevation source. We spent an hour wandering around the peaceful, tree lined paths in the gardens, where we spotted red squirrels scurrying around. There were even more fountains of different descriptions (Pyramid, Bicycle wheel, etc). We also made it to the coast, where we looked along the gulf of finland / Baltic sea across to St Petersburg. Our stomachs were starting to rumble so we shot back on the bus to the city. Here we stopped at a restaurant (Deymidoff) where we enjoyed a delicious lunch. First we toasted with vodka, and I got to practice one of my Russian lines with the waitress ‘Ya istchu zakusku pod vodku’ (I am looking for something that goes together with vodka). So she brought out some pickles! 1st course was Borcshet a traditional Russian soup based on beetroot (this was my favourite food of the whole trip). Main was Stroganoff, really good. Then we polished it off with pancakes and Icecream. Overall a great meal! Next stop was Peter and Paul Fortress. The fortress was established by Peter the Great on May 27, 1703 on small Hare Island by the north bank of the Neva River. The fortress contains several notable buildings clustered around the Peter and Paul Cathedral (1712-1733), which has a 123.2 m (404 ft) bell-tower (the tallest in the downtown) and a gilded angel-topped cupola. The cathedral (Russian Orthodox) whilst fairly modest in its decor is the burial place of all Russian tsars from Peter I to Alexander III, with the exception of Peter II (The Romanov dynasty). Their white tombs with gold crosses are very distinctive. After exiting the cathedral we listened to the different chimes of the bells while Olga pointed out some of the other structures in the fortress which included the still functioning mint building, the Trubetskoy and Alekseyevsky bastions with their grim prison cells, and the city museum. According to a centuries-old tradition, a cannon is fired each noon from the Naryshkin Bastion. Annual celebrations of the city day (May 27) are normally centered on the island where the city was born. On the way out Peter the Great let me sit on this knee while we had a photo.
The tour continued through St Petersburg we followed a girl riding a horse bare backed through the city, we were so enthralled with this situation we missed the famous Bronze Horseman statue. The equestrian statue is a monument of Peter the Great, built by Catherine the Great. The name of the statue is also the name of a narrative poem written by Aleksandr Pushkin about the statue in 1833, widely considered to be one of the most significant works of Russian literature. The statue's pedestal is the enormous Thunder Stone, sometimes claimed to be the largest stone ever moved by man (1,250 t). Next we revisited St Isaacs Cathedral, as the rain started coming down we sheltered in the Russian Orthodox Church. The church reminded me a lot of St Paul’s, highlights were the, 112 red granite columns, the massive bronze doors, the mosaics, artwork and the interior guilding. We went from the cathedral to Subway, where we bought some beers for the canal cruise. The cruise took in various buildings and bridges from perspective of the boat, highlights were St Isaacs glistening in the setting sun. After the cruise the group split and we decided to meet at the train station at 21:40. We followed Olga and went straight to the station, where I picked up some sushi for Dinner. We gathered supplies for the train journey, namely beers and vodka! Richie/Mel and I shared a booth with this weird Russian guy, who Olga tried to get to move somewhere else but was not too successful. However opposite we found some friendly locals Slava and Olga, I tried communicating with them with my limited Russian (much to their amusement), however they spoke a bit of English, so we switched to that. We shared Cognac / Vodka and Cheese and had a grand old time. I think we crashed out around 1.30. However, some of the Aussies In the group kicked on later into the night.
Day 1 Moscow:
We had to wake up way too early 6:00! But we had no option because the train had arrived in Moscow! The weather was pretty average, much like our state of health, courtesy of the vodka toasts. The bus was ready to rock, we expected the trip to the hotel to take 45 minutes but light traffic meant we were there in 15 min. Unfortunately they had no rooms available this early, for the group! So Olga in her infinite wisdom had prebooked a room which we could store our bags in for the day. It was a three star hotel, and the reception had an airport lounge feel, but the rooms were nice enough. We went for Breakfast at the world’s largest buffet, the room was enormous and very very bright! So I tucked into my usual porridge as a violin whined away in the background. At 9.30 we headed to the metro we were on the blue line. All of the metro stations in Moscow were very impressive, characterised by marble walls, soviet statues and artwork. We got out at Ploschad Revolutsyii near Lubyanka square. It was a short walk to the famous Red square (Krasnyy – Trans. Beautiful -> Red). 500 metres in length, it was the setting for public announcements and executions. Surrounding Red square are a number of famous buildings. Gum – A ritzy deparment store, St Basil’s cathedral (commissioned by Ivan the terrible, who blinded the architect after he made it, so he couldn’t design anything as exquisite again), Saviours gate, The Kremlin wall, Lenin’s Mausoleum and the Historical Museum (red brick building). We wandered the length of the square and paused to have a group photo. We continued on hugging the Kremlin wall as we made our way down to the Moskva river. Black police cars with tinted windows and flashing lights sped past us, It oozed Russian style. At this point my foot (bruised at the base from running) was giving me a bit of grief but I hobbled on. We crossed over a couple of bridges and caught views back over the great Kremlin Palace. I got caught out holding a Banana skin for the duration of this walk because there were no bins anywhere! Next I spied the ugliest statue in the world, the 8th largest in on the planet it is a statue of Peter the great and commemorates 300 years of the Russian Navy. We passed the cathedral of Christ Redeemer, an impressive modern church that is in tune with historical Moscow. We looped back through Alexander II gardens, when I suddenly needed to go for a desperate leak. I had to hold on..., fearing if I went behind a tree or in a bush I would be arrested by the KGB. We eventually passed the WC and I dashed in. By this time the stomach was rumbling so with about an hour of free time Richie, Mel and I went to an Italian style buffet. We took the Metro back to the hotel around 2pm. We had to check into our rooms, which turned out to be quite an ordeal. Crashed out, for 2 hours in my hotel room, I didn’t realise how exhausted I was. I only woke up to Richie ringing my phone and it took me a couple of minutes to work out where I was.
We cruised back into town, getting off at one stop further than our usual tube stop. From there we began our own self guided tour with the help of my trusty guidebook. The walk was the 90 minute literary walk which highlighted the ‘well-known’ giants such as Dostoevsky, Puskin, Yesenin. The walk also passed other places of interest including theatres and newspaper offices. Earlier on into the walk we stopped at a Pub and grabbed a beer, Richie found an English newspaper and spotted a place we could go for dinner. Outside the pub I randomly met an interesting English guy who was living here in Moscow. During the walk we passed a large crowd of people cheering on Justin Timberlake look alike dancers. We finished the walk at Patriach’s pond one of the popular picnic spots in Moscow. Surrounding the pond were sculptures of creatures (monkeys and wolves) from the fables of popular playwright Ivan Krylov. As the sun slipped from the sky we tried to find this Restaurant, when we did locate it, it was fully booked. Down but not out we decided to go next door to a sushi restaurant, which I love! The menu was somewhat intimidating but with the help of the English speaking waiter we ordered the sushi banquet. It came out to us on a small wooden bridge. We washed it down some Asashi’s, perfect. Next we wandered back into the red square and took some night photo’s. Back at the hotel, I gave Richie a lesson in 500, before crashing out for the night.
Day 2 Moscow:
We had a big day lined up so I started with my usual porridge to keep the home-fires burning. This time for breakfast we were accompanied by an ‘upbeat’ piano accordionist. We rendezvoused at the lobby at 08:45 where Olga sorted out last minute finances with the group. Olga’s promises of fine weather for the whole trip, turned to custard as it was raining steadily outside. We exited at Ploschad Revolutsyii metro station and went straight to the queue for Lenin’s Mausoleum, as we waited in the queue we got to see the changing of the guard for the tomb of the unknown soldier. Next to the tomb was the eternal flame, which burns for all the soldiers that died in WW2. This area was only accessible to the soldiers and Newlyweds. After a much anticipated wait we finally made it to the Mausoleum. I was chatting away to Julia about running as I entered the Mausoleum and I was immediately Shushhhh’d, by the guards. There was also a rule for ‘no hands’ in pockets. It was an Eerie sight, the former soviet leaders body, was very life-like, with a slight waxy appearance. It looked like he was just having a quick nap. Behind the Mausoleum at the foot of the Kremlin wall are the graves of other famous communists including Joseph Stalin, Leonid Brezhnev and Yuriy Andropov. Lenin’s wife and sister are also buried here as are the first man in space Yuriy Gagarin, writer Maxim Gorky and American John Reed. Next on the agenda we coat checked our bags and ventured into ‘Russia’s Heart’ – The Kremlin. Citadel of the Tsars, headquarters of the Soviet and now home to the Russian President and the seat of his administration, for centuries it has been a symbol of the power of the state. The name Kremlin, translates to fortress. Designed by Italian architects, the gigantic red brick wall stretches between the 19 towers. The Kremlin actually used to be completely surrounded by water but now the river is directed through a large pipe underneath the Alexander II gardens. Olga left us to the devices of another guide for the Kremlin, she was just ok. I actually got more information from reading the guide book! So we entered the Kremlin through the Trinity tower, we first passed by the State Kremlin Palace, the most modern building (1961) of the complex. We peered across the road at the White Senate, and the guards were quick to blow the whistle on anyone who moved into this restricted area. The Tsar cannon was impressive, although at 40 tonnes it was more an ornament than a firing machine. Next we came across the Tsar bell, the largest in the world, weighing a whopping 200 tonnes. The bell now lies on the ground where it fell from Ivan the Great’s Bell tower (81 metres high). An 11 tone chunk is missing from the bell where someone poured cold water over a hot bell (from the 1701 fire) causing it to break off. The tour was then distracted somewhat by a military show taking place in cathedral square. Soldier marched with precision timing, horses strutted like in a dressage performance and the rifleman had some fancy tricks flipping guns around. The show ended spectacularly when a group of riflemen crouched down (and rather unexpectedly) fired live ammunition into the air. The buildings surrounding cathedral square were unsurprisingly cathedrals, however they were very majestic with their golden domes. There was the Cathedral of Archangel, Church of the twelve apostles, Cathedral of Annunciation and Cathedral of the Assumption. The last on the list was regarded in the 14th Century as the most important church in Moscow, this was where the princes were crowned and the patriarchs of the Orthodox Church buried. The interior of the church was unlike anything I had seen before, with wall to wall fresco’s and other artwork. Every surface in the church told some kind of story, even the pillars! And that was the end of the tour, and our guide rather hurriedly scuttled away! Running short on time we unfortunately skipped past the Great Palace and the State Armoury on our way out. We grabbed a baguette on the go before meeting Olga. We then took the metro out to a KGB nuclear bunker (Number 42). Purposely built for a nuclear attack, the bunker complex was 65 metres (18 floors) below a fairly normal suburban neighbourhood. The tour was interesting and interactive. We saw a short video on the history of countries nuclear testing and weaponry in the cold war era (from a Russian perspective). And we had fun trying on soviet uniforms and gas masks. Richie looked particularly gimpish in a certain gas mask! So now we had free time for the rest of the day, so Richie Mel and I went to Kamergersky Pereulok a pedestrian mall with cafes and bars. We stopped at a cafe and I had a beer and a biscuit. We meandered for the rest of the day, stopping at the ritzy Tsum department store, and wander past sites such as the Metropol Hotel, the Bolshoy Theatre and Karl Marx’s statue. We finished the afternoon at the Gum Department store off Red Square. Wandering past the western department stores we decided to rest our legs at a cafe called ‘colour’ and have another beer. The spot was a good vantage point for watching dancers performing a routine in the mall below. We met the rest of the group for our finale dinner. I tried a traditional Russian soup, but it tasted terrible! A cross between flat coke, soya sauce and onion juice. I much preferred the main which was beef dumplings. The group enjoyed chocolate cake to celebrate Elijah’s birthday! This was all washed down with vodkas and beers. As soon as we left the restaurant, the cool evening air hit me like a tonne of bricks. I definitely felt under the influence now. I clambered rather unsteadily onto the bus and headed straight for the back seat. Olga magically produced another bottle of vodka for the journey. Living up to the tour’s name! We were embarking on a night tour of Moscow. Olga handed over the tour guide reins again to a fast talking Russian lady, who was very difficult to understand and the crappy bus P.A. system didn’t help either. However the trip was good fun, we visited the Novodevichiy Convent which produced a stunning reflection off the surrounding moat. Peter the Great, sent his half sister Sophia here for life, to keep her away from the throne. Also, Sparrow hill, the highest point in Moscow it offered unsurpassed views across the city. On top of sparrow hill was the impressive Moscow state university, the tallest of the seven sisters (Stalinist-Gothic buildings) we passed the famous Gorky park and made a quick stop at the WWII Victory Obelisk (Nike, on the top). Winning WWII was a proud moment for Russia, and they don’t sell themselves short celebrating it. We finished the tour at Red Square, where Olga and the tour guide were almost brought to punches about some of the historical facts of the podium Lobnoe Mesto in front of St Basil’s. There was also heated discussion about the rankings of the world’s largest squares. The bus pulled into the hotel at 1 a.m. and while others ‘hit the hay’ Divnesh and I found another way to use up our remaining Russian roubles before the end of the trip ;-)
Last Day in Moscow:
I found it extremely difficult to get up after only a few hours sleep. But I had to be on the ball this morning as I had to find my way to one of the lesser known airports in Moscow, Vnukonov. With directions on the breakfast Napkin, I said my goodbyes to Olga, Mel and Richie and I was off. I took the metro. I was to get off after 8 stops, but I fell asleep on the tube and missed counting 3 of the stops. I ended up going well past my detraining point. I had a sinking feeling in my stomach when I realised this. I made sure I was in the wrong by pointing at the names on my Napkin to some friendly Russian Metro users, and they smiled and pointed in the other direction to which I was heading! Doh! I kept an anxious eye on the time as I had to catch another train, which left on the hour to the airport. I missed the 10 a.m. train. But luckily I had built enough time contingency in my travel plans, to consider these sorts of scenario’s. So I used the spare time to wander around the market’s and surrounding streets outside the station in a non-touristified suburban Russia. I even saw a guy mowing the lawns! Safely on the 11 a.m. train I made it to the airport!

I really enjoyed my trip to Russia. From the outside it seems like a very intimidating country, but I felt once you were actually there it wasn’t at all. There were plenty of eye catching ‘sights’ in Russia, and some good buildings/monument as well ;-) Now I have a feel for the place I would definitely like to come back and visit some of the more out of the way places in Russia, I’m sure of which there are numerous, for a country so large. I think I could get by now, with key phrases under my belt such as “Hi” (prevet), “Thank you” (Spasibo) and “I am looking for something that goes with Vodka” (Ya istchu zakusku pod Vodku).
do svidaniya